A Guide to Merino Wool Grades: What Super○○’s, Yarn Count, and Price Differences Mean

Merino wool is a versatile material that performs well throughout the year. However, have you ever wondered why prices can vary from store to store, even for Merino wool products? In fact, even among Merino wool, there are different grades, and the price varies depending on “fiber fineness” and “color.” In this article, we will explain the grades of Merino wool in detail.

About Merino Wool Grades

Merino wool is graded according to the fineness of its fibers. The smaller the number, the finer the fiber; the larger the number, the thicker the fiber. Finer fibers can only be obtained in limited quantities, making them rarer and more premium. In general, wool finer than 19μm is considered high-grade wool and tends to be more expensive. This is because finer fibers are more difficult to process, and the required machinery and techniques are reflected in the price.

About Fiber Color

The price of Merino wool also changes depending on the color of the fiber. Raw wool that is as close to white as possible is more expensive, while wool closer to gray or brown tends to be less expensive. Wool that is closer to white contains fewer impurities, and because it cannot be mixed with various other shades, the amount that can be obtained is more limited, making it more likely to be expensive.

About the Super○○'s Label

When wool is made into woven fabrics such as coats or suiting materials, it is often labeled with a “Super” designation. You may have seen labels such as Super100's before. The Super number increases in increments of 10, such as Super100's, Super110's, and Super120's. As the number increases, the “raw wool fiber” becomes finer. Please note that this does not mean the “yarn” itself becomes finer.

The relationship between Super labels and μm values is shown below.

Difference from Yarn Count

Yarn count is a unit that expresses the fineness（or thickness）of yarn. It is different from the Super○○'s label mentioned above. Yarn count is based on how many meters 1,000g of cotton can be stretched into. For example, a 120-count yarn means that 1,000g of cotton can be stretched into 120,000m of yarn.

As the yarn becomes longer for the same weight, the yarn count number increases. Therefore, the higher the yarn count, the finer the yarn is considered to be.

To summarize the difference between yarn count and Super labels: yarn count refers to the fineness of the yarn, while the Super label refers to the fineness of the fiber.

Incidentally, yarn made from SUPER 150'S is not always finer than yarn made from SUPER 100'S. This is because yarn is made by bundling fibers together. Even if the fibers themselves are fine, the yarn can become thicker when spun, so yarn made from SUPER 100'S can sometimes be finer than yarn made from SUPER 150'S.

Be Careful: The Same Super○○'s Label Does Not Always Mean the Same Quality

For example, even if two products are both labeled Super100's, their prices may differ. This is because even the same Super100's label does not necessarily mean the same quality. The quality of wool varies depending on the individual sheep and the environment in which it was raised.

For example, wool from sheep raised carefully one by one can be completely different in quality from wool from sheep raised uniformly in large numbers. In addition, wool quality can vary from sheep to sheep due to genetic factors. This is similar to how human hair quality differs depending on daily care and inherited traits from one’s parents.

The Super○○'s label is only a unit indicating fiber fineness, so the final product quality ultimately depends on the potential of the sheep itself.

Also, even if not all the fibers that make up the fabric are Super100's, the product can still be labeled as Super100's. If all the fibers used are Super100's, the price will be higher; if only part of the fibers are Super100's, the price will be lower.

For these reasons, even products with the same Super100's label can have different prices.

A Higher Super○○'s Number Does Not Always Mean Better Quality

You may be tempted to think, “Super150's seems better than Super100's,” or that “a higher number is better” and “finer fibers are better,” but that is not necessarily true. There are several factors to consider, such as the quality of the raw wool, fiber fineness, and yarn fineness. Also, the appropriate fiber differs depending on the purpose of wear.

Merino wool becomes rarer and more premium when the fibers are finer and whiter, because the amount that can be obtained is smaller. However, that does not necessarily mean it is suitable for the clothing you want to wear. The higher price comes from rarity, and it does not guarantee the quality of the final product. For T-shirts or suits that are worn frequently in daily life, Super150's fibers are too fine.

In short, the definition of quality as a fiber and the definition of quality as a finished product are different. It is better to choose a product by considering the balance of various factors.

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Recommended Merino Wool T-Shirts Available from C-one

Here, we introduce recommended Merino wool T-shirts available from C-one. At C-one, we choose the well-balanced Super100's Merino wool after considering softness, luster, and durability. If any product catches your eye, please take a look at the product page.

C FLEX Wool T-Shirt

This T-shirt features an integrated structure from the shoulder to the sleeve area, making it easier to move your arms while expressing a stress-free and flexible design. It also pursues comfort through the use of wool material.

Compared with ordinary T-shirts, this innovative design flexibly responds to arm and body movements. Thanks to its special structure, it allows easier arm movement than a regular T-shirt and supports free, unrestricted motion.

In addition, our unique sewing technique creates a comfortable fit with less stress on the body. The C FLEX T-Shirt is one of C-one’s signature products, made in Japan with high-quality wool material and careful attention to quality.

C BASIC Wool T-Shirt

A short-sleeve T-shirt made from 100% fine Merino wool with natural temperature-regulating properties.

Available in five colors: dark navy, royal blue, lavender, light pink, and dark brown. This T-shirt can be styled for any occasion. It features a unisex design that is not limited to men’s or women’s wear.

C HIGH END Wool T-Shirt

The C HIGH END Wool T-Shirt is a made-in-Japan item designed with a higher neckline so that your jacket does not directly touch your skin when worn over it.

Compared with conventional T-shirts, it helps reduce friction and discomfort around the collar. It is made with high-quality fine Merino wool, giving it a smooth feel against the skin, excellent breathability, and a less stuffy wearing experience.

It can be worn comfortably even in summer. Made by Japanese craftsmen, this high-quality T-shirt pairs well with jackets and can be worn across a wide range of occasions, from business settings to casual styles.

C HIGH END Wool T-Shirt Long Sleeve

A long-sleeve T-shirt made from 100% fine Merino wool with natural temperature-regulating properties.

Available in four colors: dark brown, mocha brown, navy, and black.

This T-shirt can be styled for any occasion. It features a unisex design that is not limited to men’s or women’s wear. The silhouette is designed to suit Japanese body shapes, with a moderately fitted shape that is not too tight.

This T-shirt is also designed with a higher neckline so that your jacket does not directly touch your skin when worn over it. Compared with conventional T-shirts, it helps reduce friction and discomfort around the collar.

In addition, because it uses high-quality fine Merino wool, it feels smooth against the skin, has good breathability, and is less likely to feel stuffy. It can be worn comfortably even in summer. Made by Japanese craftsmen, this high-quality T-shirt pairs well with jackets and can be worn across a wide range of occasions, from business settings to casual styles.

C MOCK NECK Wool T-Shirt

The C MOCK NECK Wool T-Shirt is a long-sleeve wool T-shirt featuring a refined mock neck design.

Made with high-quality Japanese fine Merino wool, it offers the texture of Super100's and feels exceptionally soft and comfortable against the skin. It has a stylish design that conveys ease and elegance. The C MOCK NECK Wool T-Shirt further enhances your mature style.

It can be worn across a wide range of situations, from business settings to casual outings. The mock neck gently covers the neckline and provides a comfortable feel without prickliness. Whether for an important office presentation or a stylish dinner date, it creates an elegant and calm impression while elevating your sense of style.

Summary

To summarize Merino wool grades:

■Premium Merino wool
Fibers are long and fine（19μm or less）, and the closer the raw wool is to pure white, the more limited the amount that can be obtained, making it rarer. The fiber length and fineness are consistent, resulting in beautiful yarn and material. Because sorting and processing also require more effort, the price tends to be higher.

■Lower-priced Merino wool
Fibers are shorter and thicker（19μm or more）, and when the color is closer to gray or brown, the amount that can be obtained increases, making it less rare. Because less effort is spent on sorting and processing, and leftover fibers after sorting may also be used, the raw material quality is less consistent. This can lead to uneven yarn and fabric irregularities, making it relatively inexpensive.

Using rare and fine fibers does not necessarily mean that a high-quality product will be created. In this article, we introduced various units such as μm, yarn count, and Super○○'s. However, rather than focusing only on these units, it is best to choose the product that suits you by considering your intended use and budget.

C-one offers products made with Super100's Merino wool, so please take a look if you are interested.